Pakse Loop: The Ultimate Motorbike Guide To Southern Laos
The Pakse Loop, or Bolaven Plateau Loop is a circular road trip in southern Laos. A car will work but most people rent motorbikes, and that’s absolutely the best way to experience the loop. Not only are motorbikes more fun but you’ll get more out of the experience than you would in a car. While it is not as dramatic as the Thakhek Loop or as famous as the Ha Giang loop in Vietnam, the Pakse Loop is the laid back, easygoing cousin of all three. It’s a more relaxed adventure through easy roads, quiet rural villages, and stunning waterfalls. You truly get a feel for the simple life in the Laos countryside.
This guide will cover the route and how difficult it is, attractions and waterfalls that are worth the stop, where we stayed along the route and how much it all costs. I love motorbike loops, something I discovered later in life but I will now base travel plans around them. Scootering around Pai Valley was the intro and Pakse Loop was the next level. It’s a slow, easy ride that rewards you for taking your time. Full of hidden gems that can easily be missed if you’re speeding by (as fun as that is). This is a slow raw adventure in southern Laos that you won’t forget.
Table of Contents
What is the Pakse Loop?
As mentioned the Pakse Loop or Bolaven Plateau Loop is a multi-day motorbike route in southern Laos. It starts and ends in the riverside city of Pakse and takes anywhere from three-five days depending on the sights you plan on seeing. What sets this loop apart from others is the pace, no chaos or traffic jams around major attractions. Just you and the open road, and the occasional cow. A tank of gas, a paper map, and a sense of adventure are all you need as you drive between coffee plantations and peaceful villages. On the Pakse Loop the journey between the stops is as enjoyable as the stops themselves.
Pakse Loop Preparation
The Pakse Loop can take anywhere from three to five days. There no shortage of stops you can make and villages you can visit while on the loop. We did the Pakse Loop in three days and two nights so I will just cover the portion that we did. You also have the option of doing the loop clockwise or counter-clockwise, both have their pros and cons. We did the loop counter-clockwise, the road starts off easier so you can get a feel for your bike and ease into the ride. However the clockwise route is less common, the route will feel more quiet and remote. Almost like you have the whole loop to yourself. Neither choice is incorrect, just whatever your preference is.
Next up you’ll obviously need a bike to ride the loop! We rented ours from Kai Lions Hostel, a really nice Hostel in Pakse. We stayed there before and after our loop, they rented bikes for a reasonable price and held our luggage for us while we were away. I would highly recommend them. Otherwise Miss Noy Motorbike is another great spot for a rental. You can expect to pay around 120,000-150,000 Kip per day ($6-$7 USD) for a starter bike which is really all you need. We ended up paying more for a bigger bike as there would be two of us on it, just shy of 600,000 Kip ($30 USD) for the three days. Lastly you need insurance, double check your coverage. Companies won’t cover you if you don’t have the proper license and it isn’t cheap getting evacuated out of rural Laos.
Protip: As with anywhere, take an extensive video of your bike before you drive away with it and really highlight the damage that is already there. This can save you later.
Pakse Loop Route General Overview
The Pakse Loop starts in the city of Pakse, from there you will head east toward Paksong. About twenty kilometers outside the city is the turnoff north if you want to do the loop clockwise. Whichever you choose to do you’re now officially on the circuit! Continuing east will bring you to one of my favorite parts of the loop, the 4 Sisters Area. The 4 Sisters Area is a stretch of about 10 kilometers that has four different stunning waterfalls. Each one is unique and they are all worth the stop. After about 50 kilometers you’ll reach Paksong, a town where most people will spend the night. It’s honestly not far from Pakse at all, fifty kilometers is not a huge distance but after taking in all the waterfalls and stopping for coffee a full day will sneak up on you fast.
Waking up in Paksong on day 2 you’ll have a choice of heading north toward Thateng or continue east toward Sekong. Continuing east is the route to take if you want to experience the entire Pakse Loop. It isn’t the main route, more like a detour taking you deeper into rural Laos. This is how some itineraries take five days, unfortunately we didn’t have time for this in our schedule. I will 100% return to Laos to do the full loop someday. This route has another five waterfalls and a new city to explore. Just another reason to come back.
Heading North
So with promises made that we would come back to do the full Pakse Loop later, we set off north toward Thateng. Instead of hunting down waterfalls day two is all about taking in the Laos countryside. About three kilometers south of Thateng there is a turnoff to head east, absolutely take it. It’ll add almost forty kilometers to your trip but it’s worth every meter. You’ll drive past mountains standing off in the distance in the countryside, and since this is also a detour off the main highway you’ll almost have the entire road to yourself. The only other people you’ll see are the locals occasionally driving by in their tractors. After the scenic drive you’ll end up right in Thateng, you can either spend the night here or continue north for about ten kilometers and find some local homestays.
The third day of the loop is a busy one but is the best combination of driving, waterfalls, and coffee that the loop has to offer. Head north until the road turns to the west to the town of Ban Khouaset, here there are another couple waterfalls to explore. After that it’s about another eighty kilometers south with a turn west to end up back in Pakse and completing the Pakse Loop. The main loop is about 230 kilometers total so there’s a lot to see and do, here’s what I recommend.
Protip: Pack snacks and water. Some of the stops have no services and you’ll definitely want them in case of an emergency in rural Laos. (Bike breaking down, etc.)
Pakse Loop Day 1, The 4 Sisters
Tad E Tu
Starting out in Pakse and heading east, begin your loop with a stop at the Coffee Research Center. There isn’t much to do here to be honest however they have a stunning look out with a sign that looks like it came from Ubud, Bali. It’s a nice taste of all the incredibly scenery to come. After the quick stop you’re officially in the 4 Sisters Area and the first waterfall is just down the road. The first of the 4 Sisters is Tad E Tu. What makes this waterfall so cool isn’t the waterfall itself but where it is. Throughout the 2010s, developers transformed the area around Tad E Tu and planned it as a small tourist complex called Falls View Resort. The complex was never completed due to a number of factors but the biggest reason was Covid-19, now it is just a half finished ghost town.
Windows broken, cracked sidewalks and half completed buildings, nature is slowly reclaiming the area. A short walk through the jungle ghost park and you’ll reach Tad E Tu, an impressive waterfall on its own but amplified by how isolated and remote it feels. After spending time admiring the falls, explore the abandoned resort. It’s an eerie but interesting atmosphere
Tad Fane
After a short 4-kilometer drive down the road, you’ll arrive at Tad Fane, a waterfall many consider the best viewpoint on the Pakse Loop. Tad Fane is actually two separate rivers pouring into a huge gorge, so deep you can’t see the bottom. The result is two huge streams of water free falling through the air instead of pouring down rocks. It is very impressive to see however looking at it from above is all you can do, there is no access into the gorge. Tad Fane is not abandoned like Tad E Tu, you’ll have to pay to visit but they sell food and have bathrooms. Another unique feature is that you can zipline over the falls, have coffee with chairs and a table out on the zipline over the falls, even spend the night sleeping suspended over the falls.
We tried to do the coffee option but apparently it was closed because they were painting the table. Who cares what color the table is?
Tad Champi
Tad Champi is the third waterfall on the Pakse Loop. It doesn’t have the remoteness of Tad E Tu or the drama of Tad Fane, it’s a quiet waterfall where you might actually stop to relax. This waterfall slips under the radar, with other more unique waterfalls close by buses don’t stop here. That just leaves you sharing it with locals and other loop riders. A perfect place to take a quick swim then have lunch on the shore. While the other falls are more picturesque, Tad Champi is the one you’ll actually interact with.
Tad Yuang
Tad Yuang is the most balanced waterfall on the Pakse Loop, if for some reason you only had time to see one then this would be it. The waterfall is the perfect balance of views, swim ability, and accessibility. There are trails that allow you to stand at the top of the falls and also hike down to the bottom of the falls where you can swim in the pools. While it is not as developed as Tad Fane, it is developed enough where you will need to pay to visit. With how impressive the falls are and the accessibility you have to view them, its worth the admission.
With the 4 Sisters all visited it’s only another 3 kilometers to Paksong, our first stop on the loop. Kai Lions has a sister hostel there and that’s where we stayed, we really enjoyed our stay in Pakse and again in Paksong. I would recommend their chain to anyone travelling in the area. While in Paksong, be sure to try the coffee. The town proudly earns its reputation as the coffee capital of Laos. Another thing we missed this time, but will catch next time is a visit to the 1971 Café, a coffee shop set inside a former power plant that bombing destroyed in 1971, which inspired its name. It still has bullet holes and showcases old bomb casings from that era, definitely a stop worth checking out.
Pakse Loop Day 2, coffee and countryside
We awoke on the second day of our Pakse Loop and got ready for ride. We secured breakfast and coffee for the road, and after the full day yesterday, we stocked up on water and snacks. The second day has less stops to make but plenty of beautiful scenery to see, perfect for a picnic lunch. There are two notable stops to make on day two: Shared Happy Farm and Sinouk Coffee Cafe. Shared Happy Farm is an organic farm stay on the Pakse Loop, we stopped here for a fantastic farm fresh snack. Aside from being a stop you can chose to stay for a couple nights and learn about sustainable farming and help out on the farm. They have rustic bungalows for accommodation, providing the opportunity to make your stop turn into a cultural exchange.
With nearby hikes and other travelers to meet, it would make a great place to stay; however, because we were short on time, we just passed through.
The second stop is Sinouk Coffee Café and Resort, home to Sinouk Coffee, one of Laos’s best-known coffee brands. You can also visit a location in Pakse but this is the original estate. This isn’t just a cafe, it’s a whole experience. There’s a museum showing the history of the brand, you can tour the plantation and rows of coffee trees, or take a coffee tasting class. My pallet isn’t sophisticated enough for things like that but it’s cool regardless. There is even accommodation on the resort, a little more upscale than the Happy Farm, this would almost feel like a vacation. Full of farm fresh food and delicious coffee, we continued north and spent the rest of the day driving the Pakse Loop.
The Open Road
While stopping to explore waterfalls is fun, day two is what the Pakse Loop is all about. Riding slow and taking in the beautiful Laos countryside. Cows will inevitably block the road, children in the villages will wave and run up to you as you drive past, the smooth highway breaks down into a rougher road making the drive more challenging but fun at the same time. Take the extra loop around Phou Tayoun Mountain, don’t be in a rush. A big part of the Pakse Loop isn’t as much checking things off a list but enjoying the slow ride. After this beautiful detour you will find yourself in Thateng, depending on how slow you take the ride will determine where you stay for the night. I 100% recommend driving ten kilometers further north and staying at Mr. Hook’s Homestay.
Captain Hook's Homestay
Mr. Hook’s Homestay, also known as Captain Hook’s Homestay is a popular stop on the Pakse Loop. Not only was this my favorite stop on the loop but honestly one of my favorite stays while visiting Asia. It’s a memorable experience that comes up in conversation pretty often. This is not a resort, it’s a rustic village home stay hosted by Mr. Hook. After becoming a popular stop on the Pakse Loop he got the nickname Captain Hook. It’s an opportunity to experience Laos village life as he leads guided tours through the villages and shows travelers how everyone lives together. This is a huge cultural stop on the Pakse Loop and worth the visit.
Captain Hook is an incredibly charismatic and authentic host. A big part of Laos culture is sharing stories and legends of how certain things came to be in Laos. For example in the villages of Laos locals smoke a 50/50 mixture of sugarcane and tobacco in these huge bong looking pipes, he told us the fable of how these pipes came to be and how they a now apart of the culture. He loves telling travelers stories, and of course you share stories while sharing his supply of homemade alcohol. Drinking in Laos has it’s risks, people have died recently drinking poisoned alcohol. Use your best judgement and always say no if you feel uncomfortable.
A Night at Captain Hook's
We rolled into Captain hook’s village after the sun had set so we missed the tours during the day, another reason to return to the Pakse Loop. Upon arriving and getting settled into our bedroom we were given the choice of “hunting” or “cooking” with no more context. Considering that we had no desire to walk around the pitch black jungles of rural Laos to hunt we opted to help cook dinner. It was an absolute blast, the other volunteers and us were given orders by Captain Hook’s family who all consisted of kids 13 and younger. They would pass us bowls of unknown substances and tell us to throw them into a pot, all while singing random songs from the Billboard top 100 as cats and dogs walked among the food. Absolute chaos but the best kind.
After food was cooked dinner was served, it was f@$king phenomenal. I have no idea what ingredients we used or foods we created but it was probably the best meal we had in Laos. The “hunters” returned as we sat down to eat, they were tasked with finding frogs and insects with flashlights in the dark. A popular bar snack in Asia, similar to having a bowl of almonds with a beer. I was happy with my choice and rode the high of my bullet dodge pick for awhile. After dinner Captain Hook brought out his homemade alcohol collection, he almost had every color of the rainbow as a liquid in a bottle. I tried them all, I only remember not liking one of them. With full stomachs and plenty of booze we spent the night listening to Captain Hook tell stories, a perfect way to end the day.
Pakse Loop Day 3, Heading Home
We awoke and had a quick breakfast before saying goodbye to Captain Hook and the community, with that we started our final day on the Pakse Loop. We had a decent amount of distance to cover to get back to Pakse and with a few more stops to make there was no time to lose. Following the road north we eventually came to the town of Ban Khouaset, a quick stop for some Laos coffee and we were ready. Just outside the town there were some more waterfalls to explore.
The first is the Tad Hang waterfall located in Tad Lo Village. It isn’t a towering waterfall like some of the others on the loop, Tad Hang is more of a curtain spreading wide across a rock face. Many natural pools form at the base, a great place to swim and with guest houses close food and drinks aren’t far away either. Honestly a nice place to relax. The second waterfall is Tad Lo, located just a short walk upstream from Tad Hang. Again not a huge towering waterfall, Tad Lo is another place where you can swim in natural pools and relax. We watch locals fish from the top of the waterfall, casting their lines down into the pools below. There is also an abandoned suspension bridge where you can get some cool pictures.
The Last Waterfall and Last Ride
After leaving the Tad Lo Village, it’s about eighty kilometers back to Pakse. Aside from a coffee stop there really isn’t anything to stop for on this stretch expect for one last waterfall, another day where you can just simply enjoy the scenery and enjoy the ride. A fitting way to end the Pakse Loop. The final waterfall you will see is about fifty kilometers south of Tad Lo Village, it is called Pha Suam. Another wide instead of tall waterfall, what makes this one cool is the volcanic rock you can walk on to get up close to the falls. Take caution in the rainy season, I wouldn’t recommend going right to the edge like we did in the dry season.
Three stops for gas, seven waterfalls visited, one unknown meal eaten, and an infinite amount of coffee drank. Our official Pakse Loop stats as we rolled back into town completing the journey. We got back to Kai Lions Hostel, dropped off the bike in perfect condition, and took a well deserved shower. A group of backpackers were getting ready to head out on the loop the following day, I didn’t tell them much so that they could enjoy hunting and finding the gems like we did. However the one thing I did say they had to do was visit Captain Hook.
Pakse Loop Breakdown, Costs, and Advice
Riding the Pakse Loop is one of the most “bang for your buck” multi-day adventures in Laos. Depending on the size of the loop you are doing expect to pay roughly
- $3 USD per day on gas
- $9 USD per day renting the bike
- $8 USD per day on accommodation (will be higher or lower depending on where, accommodation has the highest variance in price)
- $6 USD per day on food and drinks
- $1 per waterfall for parking and fees (not every waterfall has this)
For a grand total of roughly $27 per day, for a backpacker budget this is honestly highballing it, you could easily do it closer to $23-$24. If you don’t want to follow our route to a T, which is what I recommend to be honest then here are at least the stops you should make a point of visiting.
- Tad E Tu and the abandoned resort
- Tad Fane
- Tad Yuang
- Any coffee cafe or plantation (in Laos coffee country they’re all fantasic)
- Captain Hook’s Homestay
- Tad Lo Village and waterfalls
They were my favorite parts, although half the fun is discovering new things yourself. I know there’s more hidden gems on the Pakse Loop, hopefully you find even cooler stops than I did. Here is some last advice I’d give to anyone preparing the ride the loop.
- Prepare for less amenities, some stops on the loop are very rustic. Having snacks and water on hand can be a lifesaver
- Fuel up your bike whenever you see a gas station, you never know if the next one has run out
- Bring cash, the one ATM on the loop had no money in it when we tried to use it
- Ride for the conditions, storms move quick and road conditions can change fast
- If anything happens where you need help don’t be afraid to ask a local, everyone is very friendly and body language goes a long way
- Don’t plan your days too tight! The loop is most enjoyable when you have time and flexibility instead of racing through it
Pakse Loop Final Thoughts
The Pakse Loop isn’t about racing through and checking off attractions, it’s about taking it slow and enjoying the ride. A lot of places in Asia are busy and fast, it’s nice to slow down a little and enjoy quiet villages and moments that aren’t on any itinerary. A perfect way to introduce yourself to motorcycles, the Pakse Loop helped me find a new hobby. I can’t wait to return for the full loop and the chance to reflect on the quiet country roads again. Maybe see a cow or fifty.
